Another day, another blog entry...
I returned yesterday from a long week in Maun, Botswana followed by a quick retreat in Nelspruit, South Africa... Botswana was work-related and Nelspruit was a much needed dip in Lake Me. I have officially been in my position for two months and have now visited all the countries we support... so I suppose I can either quit or be fired knowing that I saw what I came to see... but hopefully that won't happen.
Botswana was... well... um... interesting. It was about a two hour flight from Johannesburg and looking out the window I'm pretty sure not one person lives between Joburg and Maun. How would I describe Maun? Lots of sand... lots of little bushes... tons of goats and donkees... and not much else. Sadly, there was some sort of cow disease at some point in the 90s and they all had to be slaughtered. They are now back in Botswana, but now there are a lot of donkeys too. AND there are hippos and crocs, but even more sadly I saw none.
Did I mention I slept in a tent for four nights?
Yup, that's right... Boston Sarah has had to do some majuh readjusting to life in Africa. Expectations have had to be altered (not lowered) and hand sanitizer purchased. I did not wash my hands once (ok, actually just once...) while I was in Maun because the water in the toilet was yellow and I figured it was probably also yellow coming out of the faucet too. I stayed at a camp ground and had two cots and a tent all to myself! It wasn't really roughing it, per se, but it was a tent... the safari kind, but without the safari. And when I arrived there was a cow just hanging out, plus several really large spiders in the bathroom stalls. And I am keeping my fingers crossed that I did not contract malaria... should find out in two weeks when I either get really sick or I don't.
(On a positive note... I have now been out of the country for two and a half months without any tummy troubles!)
I spent two days traveling, and three days visiting our projects. But enough about work...
While in Maun, I had a little bit of an opportunity to do some fun. Nearby there is the Okavango Delta, Chobe Game Reserve, and I think about 8 hours away is Vic Falls (one of the natural wonders, my friends). I did not get to see any of these sites, but I was able to go on a two hour boat road down the river to the entrance of the Delta. Basically there were people in Maun having fun, and we were able to talk the boat driver into letting me go with him to pick up the fun-havers at their camp sites along the river... which is where the hippos and crocs hang out that I did NOT see. But alas, the river is beautiful... tons of exotics birds (if you're into that sort of thing), African lilly pads, those white and pink flowers that just float on the river, and just overall niceness. My plan is to stay a little bit longer the next time and see both the Delta, perhaps Chobe, and definitely Vic Falls. The neat thing about Botswana is that they don't have fences around their reserves, so it's just you and the predators hanging out together under the African sky.
(and as I write this blog, my tin roof just made the loudest noise... that musta been one hell of an avocado... I'd go explore, but this is Africa and all the single ladies should not be exploring outside by themselves after dark).
So, then I flew back to Joburg via Gabarone, and made my way across the N4 to Nelspruit for a nice weekend with no volunteers, work colleagues, or backpackers. In Nelspruit I was able to FINALLY visit some proper malls... (see, I'm already talking like a South African, hey?) which is ironic, because back home shopping and me did not get a long so much... I ordered everything off of amazon because I seriously could not be bothered. Here, it's like heaven... a fresh breath of civilization compared to my new home in Swaziland. And shopping I did... ALL weekend long... not only because it was fun, but because I have a new home to shop for and not too many options nearby.
OMG, and the beef jerky... on the plane ride back to SA, my new Afrikaner friend made me try some... although it had some Dutchy name so I can only assume that's what I was eating based on appearance... and I am so hooked... and they had it all over Nelspruit at the malls. Slim Jim has nothing on these beautiful pieces of dried up South African pieces of meat (I can feel my blood pressure rise as I type this blog).
It was a great weekend to myself in Nelspruit, staying both nights at an adorable little guest house, and on Sunday I made my way back home. I looked at a map, and decided on the quickest route... which turned out to be the longer route through winding roads and mountains and a town with not much there called Piggs Peak. Although that was not the most economic return home, the cool part is that I got to drive past Kruger National Park and went to to the gates to see how much it would cost me to take a little drive... 180 Rand... so that will be a trip for another day.
Speaking of pigs... this morning I went to my car and there was a whole bunch of them just hanging out... protecting my car from strangers.
I may have previously mentioned this, but just as a reminder I totally live on a farm. Not only that, but while I was gone two of the momma pigs had a whole mess of piglets... I'd guess around 7-8... which puts the total pig count to about 15-20 RIGHT OUTSIDE MY DOOR. The chickens are having babies, the goats are having babies, the horses are having babies, I drove past two wart hogs going at it yesterday, and I am here all by myself blogging (When I was young, I never needed anyone...)
So, here we are... today was a successful day back at work and I went to yoga for the first time tonight... and I don't want to get y'all too excited... but... [wait for it]... I may have made some new friends. A bunch of bloody Americans... can you believe it? AND one from Westborough of all places. Oh, Route 9... how I have missed you.
Anyhow, on that note... I think it's time for bed... I will be up at 3 AM with the roosters.
What a week!
On Tuesday I said my goodbyes to Tent #8 and was on my way to Cottage #1. Seven weeks later, and I am FINALLY moving out.
When I was interviewing for the position, Christy said not to worry about finding a new home... she had been in Swaziland for a mere 4 nights when she made her transition from the Lodge to her permanent home... she had been shown a variety of housing options within her first few days and quickly decided on one. Piece of cake, I thought. And besides... I had no problems staying at the Lodge for the interim because with my own private ensuite bedroom, could it really be that bad?
Well, I was pretty much wrong. Apparently Ezulwini is experiencing a real estate boom, because when I rolled into town, they were fresh out of housing options. Not only that, but on my first night ever in AFRICA, as their new MANAGER, I was placed in a dorm room, with no bathroom, three bunk beds, and a mess of roommates. Some of my roommates went to bed early, some slept in late, and I was forced to sift through two years of my life in the dark. I was not happy... to say the least. And p.s., have you ever stayed at a hostel before? The showers and bathrooms are less than desirable. I think this was the first of many what-the-hell-were-you-thinking-when-you-decided-to-apply-for-a-job-in-Swaziland moments.
About a week later, things were looking a little brighter... Christy showed me her home, Cottage #1, and I decided to move in after she vacated... WEEKS later. I also discovered the joys of tent living and made my way to Tent #8 for night number two. Still no private bathroom, but at least I now had natural light and no risk of hitting my head on the bunk above me... and up to three roommates rather than five. I had to make a few room shifts that first week, and a trip to Mozambique, but was able to secure my corner of Tent #8 for the remaining five weeks.
I have since had a love/hate relationship with the Lodge and Tent #8. Let me catch you up on what it's been like.
So here is a picture of the Lodge and Tent #8. Not too much to mention here... but notice that I am reading Power of One? How cliche am I? This front porch is the main hang out area. Sometimes they make me go and get my DVDS which are then projected onto a big screen for movie nights. I have not yet been able to convince any volunteers to watch Brown Sugar or Love & Basketball, but you will be happy to know they LOVED "Just Friends"... speaking of which, I found my lost copy in one of the bags I brought with me... which has since gone through the wash... so if you want my somewhat scratched, but very clean, extra copy... let me know!! (I swear by the moon and the stars in the sky...)
On the same porch, we also have dinners together every night... cooked and cleaned by the volunteers... and usually consist of either chicken or beef, green and red peppers, and rice. Thankfully, I have not been placed on the cooking roster.
One of my favorite things about the lodge is the wildlife. Some days you'll be lying there [reading Power of One] and all of a sudden you'll hear some banging noises on the tin roof [rust!] and the monkeys are playing. One morning Susie hushed me and I turned to look and a little cheeky monkey was sitting on our tent porch! And if it's not the monkeys goofing around, it's Spotty... my boss's dog. As my brother would say... he's pretty much a yipping fuzz ball, but without a whole lotta fuzz. He likes to bark, and is perhaps the most loved critter on the face of the earth. He roams the property looking for cuddles from the seemingly endless supply of staff member and volunteers. And he also likes to jump on my white capris and leave little dirty paw prints... never fails. And as annoying as she is, I am so in love with the little turd... sometimes she would join us in Tent #8 and would amazingly spend the entire evening underneath our blankets.
And as I sit in Cottage #1... which is in the middle of NOWHERE... completely surrounded by nature... one thing I am definitely going to miss is the social life because basically I have no friends yet... but a few times a week I can talk the volunteers into letting me socialize with them. Not that there's an abundance of opportunity in Swaziland, but we've have some nice dinners out on the town. Here's a picture of my first group of volunteers and a Saturday night outing to Spur at Sheba's Breast. I would like to point at the fourth guy from the left... that's Max, and he is my favorite volunteer so far. WICKED !!
So, let's end on a high note... I won't tell you how many times the bathroom was out of toilet paper, or soap, or there was some major funk on the toilet seat... or how the showers gave you an electric shock when you turned the knob or how the water was freezing cold because it had been raining for a few days and the solar energy failed to heat the water... or how the Khumbis stopped running at 7PM and I was essentially stuck at the lodge without any access to ice cream... or how my clothes would take days to dry on the line and I had to wear wet undies to work... and how it felt like I was at work 24/7 for seven entire weeks. Although I love my new cottage (and the rooster who wakes me up at 3 AM in the morning), part of me is gonna miss that Tent #8.
Sorry folks for not keeping you in the loop, but I almost died...
Ok... I jest... but I was really really sick. (Thanks Africa!) Now, let's catch up...
During our last chat I had just returned from zee bush where we were busy counting giraffes (and I was busy catching a virus). The next week I was off with Christy to Cape Town, specifically Hout Bay, to visit some more of the projects. I have always wanted to go to Cape Town, so I was beyond excited. We drove to Johannesburg, caught our flight on 1time, and we were off!
Overall, sneezes aside, Cape Town did not disappoint. We have a new backpacker lodge and it was luxurious compared to Tent #8 in Ezulwini. And I was fortunate enough to have my own room and bathroom for the week! (My first private time since leaving for India!) It was a slow month which gave me plenty of time to get to know the coordinator and new lodge manager.
On the project side of things, Shannon & I went on a tour of the township in Hout Bay (Imizamo Yethu) with our tour guide, Afrika... as far as townships go, it didn't seem too bad... although wikipedia just told me "The Disa River which runs through this settlement has the highest level of e-coli bacteria that has ever been recorded in South Africa" so I guess you decide. I suppose nothing some hand sanitizer can't take care of? Just don't go swimming.
On tour day, and the subsequent days, we visited all the daycare centers that we support within the township and helped with the reading club one afternoon. We also visited a boarding school outside of the township for troubled youth, plus a company that makes crafts out of used tea bags. They employ township residents and we are hoping to place future volunteers there.
We also visited a school in a community in Hout Bay called Hangberg. Still trying to wrap my brain around this particular area, but it's a community of "coloured" folk who speak Afrikaans. It's a dangerous area, with a drug problem, and a quick google search revealed a riot in 2010. I'm still learning about this community, but there seems to be some parallels to the aboriginal community in Australia. We met with Christy's favorite teach, Teach, and there is clearly loads of work to be done.
During the week, the coordinator took us on a touristy tour of Cape Town and we headed up the jaw dropping Victoria Road to Cape Town's V&A Waterfront. And this is when I fell in love with Cape Town. SO BEAUTIFUL! Stunning coast... impressive mountains... and a lovely city to boot! It was like Africa's Sydney and I can't wait to go back. It was a quick tour for me, and on the next trip I plan on taking some vacation time to explore Table Mountain, Cape Point, Cape of Good Hope, wine country and possibly some white shark cave diving (gasp!)... at which point in time I may have to get the shark tramp stamp I have always wanted... If I survive.
It was a great week and it felt refreshing to be back in civilization once more. Christy and I headed back to the Kingdom of Swaziland... just in time for Easter and a weekend of braaie and volunteers and sadly no Easter bunny... and then I got very, very sick.
I was still recovering from my virus and Monday started out with a feeling of general poopiness all morning, and then I got the chills and the aches and feverishness and then it turned into the longest week of my life. Some nights I slept... some nights I was too cold to sleep... and other nights I woke up completely drenched. I had to go to work because I was still in training, and I felt like total shite with an off and on fever that lasted SEVEN days. We had Christy's going away paint ball, and then mountaintop picnic, and I could barely hold myself up. I was ridiculously miserable.
Not only did I have a fever... but weird things started happening to my body... at first my belly was covered in red dots that looked like mosquito bites of varying shapes... then they moved to my face and it was like 16 year old Sarah was coming back for a surprise visit. I then developed a nice bumpish thing on my right cheek near my underwear line and Susie did some investigating. I'm going to keep it real here, folks... she said it looked like I was growing mold. She took a picture with her iphone and she was right. If that's not disgusting enough, during paint ball I discovered two more similar creatures, one behind each knee.
I don't think anyone believes me, but I swear I have African Tick Bite Fever. Google it. Google image search the hell out of it. Remember the giraffes from a coupla weeks ago? Well... those giraffes were covered in ticks and so was I. There were ticks EVERYWHERE and at least one of those fellas musta bit me... I have been to hell and back but the good news is that I am here to tell you I am a survivor... I'm gonna make it...
It's been a solid two days fever-free and suddenly I like Swaziland again. My face is starting to clear up again (although my three moldy sores are taking their sweet time)... tomorrow is Christy's last day at work... I buy her car on Monday... and I move into my new cottage on Tuesday! So long Tent #8.
And it's off to Botswana in a week!
